The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.
This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four hidden city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and over 3,000 vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on